We had heard much about this tiny isolated country over the past few years, because the borders were not opened to tourists until 1980, and very few visitors are admitted each year. The main reason visitors are so few and far between is due to the exorbitant “tourist tariff” imposed on every “outsider” who crossed its borders. By exorbitant, I mean $250.00 per day, per person! The purpose of such a tariff is to limit influences from the outside world on Bhutan’s rich cultural heritage, and to maintain a high level of “Gross National Happiness” which is most important to Bhutan’s people. They love the many festivals performed across the country, with dancers dancing for hours in colorful and elaborate costumes, as you can see above.

I believe one reason Bhutanese people are so happy is due to the simple, healthy cuisine that is so plentiful throughout the country. Their diet consists mostly of rice, potatoes, buckwheat pasta, and vegetables, with small amounts of chicken and cheese sometimes included. Our traveling companions, Margaret and Roger, are dishing up a typical dinner always served buffet or family-style in Bhutan. The second dish is red rice, next the curry with tiny bits of pork, and last, hot mixed vegetables with chopped ginger and garlic. Dessert was a small cookie or taste of ice cream.

During the week we visited Bhutan, the King Wangchuck and Queen Jetsun of Bhutan were married. There were festivals everywhere, and everyone was celebrating the royal wedding.

I’m sure the royal couple enjoyed red rice at their royal reception, it’s a daily dish in this very unusual country. I looked forward to having the red rice at almost every meal, it was my favorite Bhutanese dish, like comfort food to me.

BHUTANESE RED RICE

4 cups cooked long-grain rice
3 tablespoons butter
2 large cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce
dash red pepper, or to taste

Put the rice on a baking sheet and refrigerate it, uncovered, for 8 to 24 hours, until it is dry enough for you to gently crumble in your hands. Midway through, turn the rice to ensure even drying. When ready to prepare the red rice, heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and add only 2 tablespoons of the butter. Once the frothing subsides, add the garlic and cook, stirring frequently for about 2 minutes, or until the garlic no longer smells raw and is turning brown. Add the rice and stir to combine. Add the tomato paste and stir to coat the rice and turn it red. Increase the heat slightly and cook, stirring constantly for about 3 minutes, until the rice is heated through.
Sprinkle in the salt and soy sauce, and stir to combine well. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter and continue to gently fry the rice for another 1 to 2 minutes, to sear in the flavors. Remove from the heat, taste and add extra salt, if necessary. Transfer to a bowl and serve immediately.

The Bhutanese people live high in the Himalaya mountains, which protect them and seclude them from the rest of the world. They are industrious, self-sufficient and beautiful people. We couldn’t help but notice the many smiles that were turned our way.

Bhutan’s ancient traditions are still harmoniously blended into a simple culture with a simple cuisine. The strong Buddhist philosophy of the Bhutanese people helps to make living simply easy. Since visiting Bhutan, I’m wondering how high our “Gross National Happiness” is here in Boquete, Panama. From observing the action in our local market this morning, I’d say it very, very high, as well.

Cheers to the Royal Couple!
Cora

Lauretta also gathered together 13 different spices of widely varying flavors, and she began to work. As you probably know, Curry Powder is a blend of many spices, it’s not just one spice. By the time Lauretta had completed the long, arduous task of measuring, roasting and grinding the Curry Powder to just the right flavor, students were busy “building” their own Madras Cocktails, and preparing classic Lentil Daal, Tomato Chutney, Kachumber Salad, Cucumber Raita, Pulao Rice, Chicken Curry, and Candied Ginger Ice Cream.

The highlight of the class, if you don’t consider the cocktails, was learning to make your own customized curry powder. As we discovered, the exact measurements of each ingredient can be varied according to your taste. This is how Lauretta combined her spices to make her favorite blend.

MADRAS CURRY POWDER

8 tablespoons coriander seeds
1 tablespoon poppy seeds
6 tablespoons cumin seeds
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
1 tablespoon fennel seed
4 tablespoons ground cinnamon
8 tablespoons peppercorns
1 tablespoon fenugreek seeds or ground nutmeg
1 tablespoon whole cloves
2 tablespoons ground cardamom
2 tablespoons turmeric
2 tablespoons ground ginger
1 tablespoon cayenne (or less if less heat is desired)

In a dry skillet over very low heat, place the coriander, cumin, mustard, fenugreek, poppy seeds and fennel seeds. Roast the seeds gently, shaking the pan occasionally, until they begin to pop. When about half the seeds have popped, add the cinnamon, peppercorns, nutmeg, cloves, cardamom, turmeric, ginger and cayenne. Continue to heat and stir gently until the mixture is quite hot but not burnt. Pour into a dry blender or food processor, or use a mortar and pestle. Grind into a fine powder. Pour into a clean, dry jar, seal, and let it cool before using.

For the class, Lauretta doubled the proportions and everyone took home a bag of freshly-roasted Madras Curry Powder, ready to use in any of the many classic or modern curry recipes of their choice.

The group ended the evening by plating and dining on the exotic flavors of Indian cuisine, washing it all down with glass after glass of fine wines from vineyards around the world. To cool everyone’s palate, the Candied Ginger Ice Cream was the perfect ending to this classic Indian dinner prepared and presented with an eye toward sharing our new skills with friends and families soon.

Thanks very much to Chef Lauretta for sharing her expertise with us and to Betty Dabney for capturing the action in photographs.

I recently returned from India with a fresh supply of many spices to use in my own custom blend of curry powder. If you’d like to buy any hard-to-locate spices, please let me know.

I like my curry hot!
Cora

That being said, I’m not sure that has happened anywhere in Central America before, or for that matter, in any small town anywhere else in the world.

It all began with invitations being emailed to 30 fans of Boquete Gourmet, including a request to place reservations immediately upon receipt of the invite. Within only a few hours, the “Old House” dinner was filled with 24 seats reserved. Then, several other invitees responded with their request to attend the dinner as well. The location, chef and menu was unknown, and the dinner was completely sold out!

What could be done? I quickly added a second dinner at another location, with another chef, a new menu, you get the idea. The diners on the “waiting list” were given the opportunity to dine the night before the “Old House” dinner at a location not revealed.

The second dinner, “The Knight’s Dinner”, filled quickly! The clue was the word “knight”, which relates to a castle, and there was much anticipation about where the second dinner would be held. Nearly everyone invited to either Underground Dinner accepted their invitation with great delight, and waited patiently to discover what culinary delights were being prepared for them.

The day before the dinners, both locations were revealed to the 48 savvy, food-lovers; the “Old House” dinner with Executive Chef Danilo Moran, of Mrs. Monniche’s magnificant diningroom at Finca Lerida atop El Salto, and the “Knight’s” dinner with Chef Lauretta Bonfiglio, at Tom and Caroline Bot’s castle home, high above Boquete in El Santuario.

Both evenings were delightful, with each chef presenting their finest menus.
Chef Danilo’s entrees were Highland Trout or Braised Chicken Breast with Maracuya Sauce, and his dessert was Flan de Cafe’, made with the estate coffee espresso from Finca Lerida.

Chef Lauretta’s entrees were Roasted Pork Loin with Cardamom Sauce or Fillet Mignon with Orange Fennel Crust, and her dessert was Lemon Curd Cake with Whisky Cream.

Which dinner would you like to have enjoyed? How could anyone have predicted they would be spending such an evening in magnificent surroundings and dining on some of the finest cuisines in the world, right here in Boquete, Panama?

I attended both dinners and believe me, it was a “toss-up” as to which was more spectacular. with each having it’s own personality and style. You won’t want to miss any of Boquete’s Underground dinners, and if you’d like to request an invitation to an upcoming dinner, please write to boquetegourmet@gmail.com.

See you there!
Cora